Just like people and animals, grass and plants require nutrients to grow. Most grass and plants do not naturally produce enough of the nutrients they need to thrive, which can result in browning, wilting, and fewer blooms. Fortunately, fertilizers can give foliage a boost of vitamins and minerals through nutrients to increase the health of the plant.
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Healthy lawns are better equipped to resist disease, weeds, and pests which is why it is so important to increase the nutrients in turf and soil.
Read this guide to learn everything you need to know before selecting a fertilizer for your lawn including:
Fertilizer is a mixture of nutrients that lawns often lack. Fertilizers are available in liquid and granular forms and can be natural, meaning they're made of natural or organic materials, or synthetic, meaning the nutrients were manufactured in a lab.
All fertilizers are labeled with their macro-nutrients, the three nutrients that are essential for plant growth:
Together, these three nutrients are known as N-P-K, named for their atomic elements on the periodic table. The levels of N-P-K will be listed on the bag or bottle of fertilizer, always in the order of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium. The numbers indicate the percentage of each element per pound of fertilizer. For example, a fertilizer listed with an N-P-K of 20-0-8 has 20% nitrogen, 0% phosphorus, and 8% potassium per pound. Some labels will also help you calculate the amount of N-P-K per 1,000 square feet, helpful for large applications.
Pro Tip
Another way to remember the order of the macro-nutrients is to remember "Up, Down, and All Around." Up refers to Nitrogen, which helps the growth of the plant above the soil, Down refers to Phosphorus, which helps the roots under the soil, and All Around refers to Potassium, which helps the overall health of the plant.
Natural fertilizers tend to have a lower percentage of N-P-K than synthetic fertilizers, meaning you will have to use more natural fertilizer for the same results. Synthetic fertilizers often work faster than natural fertilizers, however, natural fertilizers often contain additional nutrients that are beneficial to turf health. Natural fertilizers are also less likely to burn lawns than synthetic fertilizers.
Knowing what nutrients your soil has or is lacking will help you select the best fertilizer. A good way to find out what nutrients the soil needs is to take a soil sample for testing.
At home soil test kits make soil testing easy. Just collect your sample, send the kit back in the pre-addressed envelope, and you will be sent your results via in 7-10 days.
You can also reach out to your local extension office to find out how they will conduct the soil test. Typically, you will collect soil samples from around your lawn (front yard, backyard, side yard, gardens, etc.) and bring them to the extension office. The office will then run a test for a minimal fee (or for free!) and create a report on the nutrition content of your soil.
Some soil test results provide recommended fertilizer N-P-K values based on your soil's analysis. Other tests provide the soil analysis only. If your soil is lacking nitrogen, you will choose a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. If you need more potassium, select a high potassium fertilizer. DoMyOwn's lawn care professionals can help determine what nutrients your lawn needs, even if your lawn is lacking any additional nutrients outside of the three main macro-nutrients, such as iron. They may also recommend that you use a soil amendment. Soil amendments improve nutrient deficiencies in soil, which help the soil better hold and grow turf.
Pro Tip
While you are taking the time to have a soil test conducted, have the local extension office identify your grass type if you do not already know it. That way, you will always know which fertilizers, herbicides, and fungicides will and will not be compatible with your grass.
There are many different formulations of fertilizers, each with their own benefits and draw backs. Consider the following when selecting a fertilizer:
Fast-Release - Like the name implies, fast-release fertilizers quickly add nutrients to the soil of your lawn or garden. This helps grass to green up quickly. Fast-release fertilizers are usually inexpensive too.
Unfortunately, most fast-release fertilizers do not last long, so they will need to be re-applied frequently. This may make them more expensive over a season as you will use more fertilizer for the same results as a slow-release fertilizer. Fast-release fertilizers also carry a higher risk of burning your lawn as they are nutrient-packed.
Slow-Release or Controlled-Release - These fertilizers create a more even and uniform growth and carry a reduced risk of burning grass and plants. They are also compatible with most grass types.
The downside of slow-release fertilizers is that they can take more time to produce results. These fertilizers are often more expensive than fast-release but they last longer.
Weed and Feed - Weed and feed fertilizers are fertilizers that also contain basic weed control, thus helping two problems at once. Different weed and feed fertilizers control different weeds, so be sure to read labels to select the product that is best for your lawn.
It is important not to use weed and feed fertilizers on new sod or grass seed because weed and feed often contains herbicides that inhibit the germination of seeds.
Winterizer - Winterizer fertilizer helps lawns prepare for the winter. An increase in nutrients before harsh winter weather will keep the lawn healthy, aid in disease resistance, and promote growth in the spring. The fertilizer is applied in the late fall but does not support growth of the lawn in the fall. If you have a cool-season grass, select a winterizer with a high nitrogen content.
A winterizer with a low nitrogen content but higher phosphorus and potassium is best for warm-season grasses.
Lawn-Starter - Lawn-starter fertilizer is designed to help new sod or grass seeds grow. Starter fertilizer is high in phosphorus to reinforce the roots of the new grass.
When to apply fertilizer largely depends on the type of grass you have. For any type of grass, multiple fertilizer applications throughout the year is the best way to maintain a healthy lawn year-round.
Warm season grasses like centipede, zoysia, and Bermuda should be fertilized 2-4 times per year, including just before the start of spring, when the grass is beginning to grow, and at the end of the summer. Aim for fertilizing every 6-8 weeks through the end of summer.
Cool season grasses like Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass should be fertilized 1-2 times in the spring (March - May), starting just after the lawn comes back from winter dormancy and 1-2 times in the fall (September - November). Cool-season turfs should not be fertilized with a synthetic fertilizer in the warmest summer months. Low-nitrogen organic fertilizers and iron amendments can be applied to cool-season turfs every 4-6 weeks during the summer.
Fertilizer should be applied in the morning or evening to prevent burning in sweltering sun of the afternoon. Apply fertilizer after the last frost of the spring and before the first frost of the fall. Fertilize your lawn 2-4 times per year, according to the results of your soil test analysis.
Check out our lawn care calendars for more information on when to fertilize throughout the year.
Pro Tip
Beware of fertilizer burn! Fertilizer burn can occur when fertilizer is applied during hot weather, the wrong type of fertilizer is used, or too much fertilizer is used in one area. The result is scorched leaves and grass that can look like drought. If you do encounter fertilizer burn, heavily water your lawn and plants daily for one week to keep the roots wet.
Fertilizer comes in two forms - liquid and granular. Both are equally effective at fertilizing lawns, however they both have their pros and cons.
Liquid fertilizers work fast, as the fertilizer is quickly absorbed into the roots of the turf. However, liquid fertilizer needs to be applied more frequently and there is a higher chance of burning the lawn if you apply too much fertilizer.
Granular fertilizers are slower to absorb into the soil and roots, meaning it will take longer to improve the health of plants and grass. But, granular fertilizers do not need to be applied as often and there is less chance of burning the lawn.
Liquid fertilizers are often mixed with water in a hand pump sprayer or backpack sprayer, then sprayed onto lawns. Some liquid fertilizers can even be attached to a hose for easy application.
Granular fertilizers are applied to lawns and plant beds with a granular spreader. The lawn should be damp before applying the granules and then watered after the granules have been spread (a process known as "watering in") to activate the granules. Be careful not to apply granules in the full summer sun as that can cause fertilizer burn to the lawn.
Learn how to mix and apply liquids and granules in our helpful guide here. For all fertilizers, be sure to read the label of the bottle or bag to ensure the fertilizer is compatible with your grass type and to learn how much to use at a time. Remember, more fertilizer than recommended does not mean faster results.
We hope you have found this guide to fertilizers helpful. Click here to shop our wide selection of fertilizers.
If you have any additional questions about selection or applying fertilizer, give our customer service team a call at 866-581- or us at [ protected].
Knowing how to pick the right fertilizer for your lawn is the first step toward a lush and green lawn. You'll need more than just a good lawn mower to keep a well-maintained and attractive lawn outside your business premises, though a good lawn mower and lawn care specialist always helps.
Without proper fertilization and overseeding, and other specialist lawn care tricks, your turf can quickly become patchy, brown, and unhealthy. And, without a good fertilizer, your lawn also becomes more vulnerable to pests and fungi.
At Earth Development, we provide comprehensive commercial lawn fertilizer services across the Midwest, including Milwaukee, Madison, and Minneapolis. We also provide a wealth of information to readers right here on our website, so in this piece, we will explore the best type of fertilizer for lawns, how you can choose the right one, and other steps you can take to ensure your lawn stays healthy.
When it comes to the best fertilizer for a lawn, the best solution for you depends on your lawn and your needs. So, when debating which fertilizer to use, we have created a guide to the top five grass fertilizers to give your cool and warm-season grasses the boost they need. Here is the best fertilizer for lawn needs.
The best fertilizer for grass, overall, is Milorganite Slow Release Nitrogen Lawn Fertilizer. This grass fertilizer is wonderful for promoting healthy grass, trees, shrubs, and flowers. With a non-burning, slow-release fertilizer solution, this nitrogen formula feeds for up to 10 weeks, while the iron helps promote long-lasting green grass.
Pros:
It stays in the root zone, preventing groundwater or well contamination;
The slow-release fertilizer keeps feeding for up to 10 weeks so you don't have to constantly re-fertilize;
The non-burning formula protects vegetation;
It does not contain salt so can be used in drought conditions;
It does not need to be watered in.
Cons:
The 32 lb bag only covers 2,500 square feet, compared to other bags that can cover 5,000.
When it comes to the best organic fertilizers, Jonathan Green is at the top of the list. For a healthy lawn, organic fertilizer like this is essential. It is made with food-grade organic materials, like feather meal, soybean meal, and blood meal. Plus, it's enriched with calcium carbonate and sulfate of potash. And with organic fertilizers, such as this organic fertilizer from Jonathan Green, you can feel safe using it around children and pets.
Pros:
Offers a homogenous blend for all grass types;
Safe for both kids and pets.
Cons:
Takes longer to see the benefits of this organic grass fertilizer.
For lawn fertilizers for new grass, we prefer the Scotts Turf Builder for lawn fertilization and grass growth.
This Starter Food blend promotes faster root and blade development, with a 24-25-4 lawn fertilizer ratio that provides the ideal amount of nutrients for a developing lawn. With this formula, you will promote grass seed to develop faster, improving seeding results so it grows 70% thicker, as well as 35% faster.
Pros:
Speeds up grass growth;
Safe to use on any grass type;
Provides proper nutrients for a newly developing lawn;
Can be used when planting new grass, starting a new lawn, or reseeding an established lawn.
Cons:
Should not be applied directly on newly planted sod, as it can cause burning.
For addressing weeds while promoting lush green grass, Scotts Turf Builder Weed and Feed is the best lawn fertilizer product for the job.
This weed-killing lawn fertilizer relies on WeedGrip Technology to grip and kills the weeds you see, as well as the ones you don't. The lawn fertilizer is formulated to address over 50 listed weeds, including clover and dandelion while creating a ticker, green grass.
Pros:
Created with WeedGrip Technology to address over 50 common weeds;
Helps to promote a lush lawn while killing weeds;
Crowds out future weeds.
Cons:
Can only be applied when temperatures are remaining between 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Of all the lawn fertilizers, Ironite Mineral Supplement is best for getting that perfect green grass look. To promote greener grass, this formula addresses nutrient deficiencies in your grass with a combination of iron, sulfur, and other minerals to promote a more vibrant finish. While promoting greener grass, the supplement also helps reduce mowing, compared to lawn fertilizers that promote growth.
Pros:
Promotes a more vibrant green grass;
Can be used on both the lawn and garden;
Does not stain or burn.
Cons:
Does not promote grass growth.
Once you've mastered NPK numbers, you also need to ask yourself, “What type of fertilizer should I use on my lawn?”.
There are many kinds of lawn fertilizers to choose from, but the best lawn fertilizers for your lawn depend on many factors. Whether you prefer organic, synthetic, granular, or liquid fertilizers, and so many more, we are breaking it all down here.
Fertilizer Type Description Features Organic Made from natural materials that give your lawn the essential nutrients It needs. - OrganiWon't burn lawns
- Offer slow and steady nutrient release Synthetic Ideal for providing the exact amount of nutrients your lawn needs based on its chemical makeup. - Work quickly
- Are inexpensive Liquid Liquid concentrates that are diluted with water that can then be easily sprayed on the lawn. - Easy to spray across the lawn
- Offer a quick-release formula Granular Dry, and come in the form of pellets. - Slow-release formula
- Won't need to be reapplied during the season Slow-Release Granular beads that offer fertilizer that releases nutrients over a controlled period, typically 6-8 weeks for longer. - Provides uniform application and growth
- Decreases loss of nutrients through the soil and air Quick-Release These immediate-release options release nutrients right away into the soil when watered for an immediate boost of nutrients. - Fast response from grass
- Less expensive than alternatives
- Provides immediate nutrients
Organic fertilizers are made from natural materials that give your lawn the essential nutrients It needs. Typically, these fertilizers are great for boosting the nutrients in your soil, too.
Organic Fertilizer:
Won't burn lawns;
Offer slow and steady nutrient release;
Has a wide range of trace minerals and balanced nutrition;
Boosts soil life by breaking down soil matter.
Synthetic fertilizers, on the other hand, are ideal for providing the exact amount of nutrients your lawn needs based on its chemical makeup.
Synthetic fertilizers:
Are commonly available;
Formulas vary for specific lawn needs;
Work quickly;
Are inexpensive.
Liquid fertilizers are liquid concentrates that are diluted with water that can then be easily sprayed on the lawn. Many liquid fertilizers are quick-release and give your lawn essential nutrients.
Liquid fertilizer:
Easy to spray across the lawn;
Offer a quick-release formula;
Must be re-applied more frequently as it absorbs quickly.
Granular fertilizers are dry, unlike liquid formulas, and come in the form of pellets. Most granular formulations are slow-release and provide nutrients to your lawn over a long period.
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Granular fertilizer:
Slow-release formula;
Won't need to be reapplied during the season;
Provides nutrients over a long period.
Slow-release formulas feature granular beads that offer fertilizer that releases nutrients over a controlled period, typically 6-8 weeks for longer, more consistent enrichment of your lawn.
Slow-Release Fertilizers:
Provides uniform application and growth;
Decreases loss of nutrients through the soil and air;
Less likely to burn the lawn;
Doesn't require as many re-applications.
Quick-release fertilizers come as both liquids or water-soluble beads. These immediate-release options release nutrients right away into the soil when watered for an immediate boost of nutrients.
Quick-Release Fertilizer:
Fast response from grass;
Less expensive than alternatives;
Provides immediate nutrients;
Is more likely to burn;
Needs more frequent applications.
Several fertilizer options can help target your lawn's unique needs and requirements. With these types of fertilizers, you can give your lawn the boost it needs for a healthier lawn.
Some specialty lawn fertilizer types include:
Weed and feed
This is a mixture of nutrients as well as weed-killing chemicals that keep your lawn free of pesky weeds and plants.
Fertilizers for New Lawns
These mixtures are formulated to promote faster, lush growth. of the lawn, allowing new seeds to grow rapidly.
Seasonal Lawn Fertilizers
Wondering what is the best lawn fertilizer for early spring? There are unique lawn fertilizers for different seasons, allowing your lawn to grow strong depending on the weather.
With so many options for the best lawn fertilizer for your lawn, it can be hard to select the right one for you. To help you choose the best lawn fertilizers for your yard, follow our step-by-step guide.
The grass type growing in your lawn is an essential factor when choosing which fertilizer to use, and there are two primary types found in yards across the U.S.: cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses.
Cool-season grasses: This type of grass is best in cooler areas of the country. The species included in this type include Kentucky bluegrass, fescue, ryegrass, and bentgrass. These grasses stay green all year and are best fertilized after the weather cools down, such as at the end of the summer;
Warm-season grasses: Typically found in warmer climates, species of warm-season grasses include Bermuda grass, zoysia, St. Augustine, and buffalo grass. All of these grasses become dormant in the winter and thrive in warm-season growth. These are best fertilized when the weather heats up.
To determine what your lawn needs, you have to test the soil. With a soil test kit, you can take a look at soil microbes, the soil's pH levels, how much acidity is present, and what nutrients are missing so you can address these issues for a healthier lawn.
To do this, all you need to do is dig up some soil and send it to the county Extension office for testing to learn what your soil needs. Typically, we recommend regular tests of your soil.
Knowing the N-P-K numbers is a key part of knowing how to choose a lawn fertilizer. These numbers determine how effective a fertilizer can be, or even how ineffective it can be.
Each fertilizer you'll find available for sale will show you the ratio contained within it on the back of the back. The numbers show the percentage of potassium, phosphate, and nitrogen. A bag that reads 30-10-20, for instance, will mean that it consists of 30% nitrogen, 10% phosphate, and 20% potassium.
You might be wondering why fertilizers change this ratio if the numbers can be wrong – and that's a good question. The answer, however, is that every law needs something different. With each nutrient offering different benefits, it's up to you to find a ratio that suits your lawn.
How Do I Choose the Right Ratio?
Choosing the right ratio depends on the current health of your lawn. Here are some general rules to stick to.
A Healthy Lawn
For an established and healthy lawn, choose fertilizers that are rich in nitrogen but lower in phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen is the least expensive nutrient of the bunch, and an established and healthy lawn doesn't need as much potassium or phosphorus.
A New Lawn
For a new lawn, phosphorus, and potassium are much more important. Go easy on the nitrogen as the roots aren't ready to handle a lot of top growth yet. So choose a fertilizer that's low in nitrogen and high in potassium and phosphorus. It's usually more expensive, but it's important for new turf.
A Stressed Lawn
If your grass is dealing with stressful conditions, then an increase in potassium can help prevent that stress and prepare the grass to be stronger. Choose fertilizers with high nitrogen and potassium, but lower in phosphorus.
Now it's time to choose between the different types of fertilizer. As we explained before, there are some options, whether liquid or granular, slow-release or quick-release, the best one for you depends on your goals.
When debating the options, consider what kind of results you need. Is it late in the season and you want quick results for a greener lawn? A quick-release formula is best for you. However, if you go ahead and apply your fertilizer in the spring, a slow-release, granular formula will help ensure the longevity of your lawn.
There's something to know about fertilizer - it's not one-and-done. It's important to plan and schedule your applications over the year, as your lawn will surely need it. While those of us up North won't re-apply fertilizer in the winter months, doing so when the weather is warmer before the frost settles is essential to maintaining your lawn and keeping it healthy through all the seasons.
The best time to fertilize your lawn is in late spring once the ground has warmed up and your grass has started to grow again. However, it's important to not apply it too early in the season, as this can hurt your grass's growth. Instead, apply it a few more times over the growing season depending on your needs.
A lawn food or supplement, such as GreenView Lawn Food will help promote a greener lawn while helping your grass endure environmental stressors. Nitrogen-rich formulas like this one will help promote a more green, vibrant lawn like the ones you dream of.
After fertilizing your lawn, you should lightly water the entire lawn to help the nutrients sink into the soil. After this initial watering of the lawn, water as you usually do for your grass type.
After using a granular bead fertilizer, you can start mowing again after you first water the lawn, or after the first rainstorm. This will give the granules a bit of time to sink Into the soil, first.
Knowing how to pick the right fertilizer for your lawn can be complicated. That's why businesses throughout the Midwest and beyond trust contractors with the task. Our teams of local experts offer commercial landscaping services, boast years of experience, and know precisely what kind of fertilizer your lawn needs based on its current condition and health.
For businesses, our service is extremely convenient. We'll keep on top of your lawn while you do what you do best.
Top dressing fertilizer for maize works best when the timing is key; ie. when it is applied at the correct crop growth stage and at the recommended rate.
This is why: For maize, Urea application timing depends on an understanding of the key growth stages. As many crops reach top dressing timing, we look at the main requirements of the crop.
Nitrogen applied at the 3-4 leaf stage with a broadcaster leaves nitrogen vulnerable to leaching when the crop does not require it.
Nitrogen – and other nutrients – are not taken up at a constant rate through the crop life. Therefore, the table below summarises the important growth stages and the amount of nitrogen in particular that the crop takes up at each stage.
Applying at 3-4 leaf stage leaves probably a 4-6 week gap before the crop is really taking up the fertilizer. Even slow-release top dressing fertilizer for maize do not overcome this in trials that I have been involved with. This is especially true in seasons with well over 600mm of rainfall like we are experiencing now.
Nitrogen takes time to get into the crop. In most cases, the optimum is around the 8-10 leaf stage for top dressing fertilizer for maize. There were certainly a number of crops in the North Rift that I looked at last week that were getting short of nitrogen at this stage where topdressing was delayed.
Do not forget, leaching has been significant this year with the high rainfall. This is why leaf tests (or leaf nutrient analysis) are an important tool to take a snapshot of what is happening inside the plant. They will also highlight other nutrients and I use them to guide:
Have I applied enough phosphate in the seedbed – do I need to change next year?
Is Boron at levels that might limit kernel numbers?
How much and how soon to apply nitrogen top dressing?
Comparing any trials in the field – has seedbed Boron or Zinc actually got into the plant and is it needed?
When we have decided how much top dressing fertilizer for maize to apply, consider splitting the application.
This reduces the risk of leaching;
Improves application timeliness;
As a general rule, the little-and-often approach means N is more efficiently taken up by the plant.
To see the logic of delaying nitrogen top dressing and look at the greatest risk of leaching in the early stages, we plotted the N uptake onto a growth stage chart.
In recent years there has been a trend among maize growers to apply Calcium Ammonium Nitrate (CAN) fertilizer to their crops in preference to Urea. The lower volatilization risk in dry soils and the perceived neutral effect on soil acidity has encouraged the trend, along with the subsidized price through the National Cereals Produce Board (NCPB).
But how accurate are these claims, and what is the best value approach for your crop? Calcium Ammonium Nitrate (CAN) contains 28% nitrogen typically and is rapidly and efficiently taken up by plants. The Nitrogen content is far lower than Urea however which contains 46% nitrogen, so the actual cost per Kg of Nitrogen is more expensive (calculations done with fertilizer bag prices):
CAN – Sh 1,900 per bag (14kg of N in a bag) = Sh 135 per Kg of Nitrogen
Urea – Sh 1,900 per bag (23kg of N in a bag) = Sh 82 per Kg of Nitrogen
We can see here that the Nitrogen in Calcium Ammonium Nitrate (CAN) costs 65% more than Urea because it is less concentrated. So even if some N is lost after applying Urea, it is still far less expensive than CAN. Applied in the right conditions to moist soils, losses are very small. In most soils the acidifying effect of Urea is minimal, and the Calcium in CAN is not in a form that is particularly available.
Maize can easily achieve 9 tons/ha (40 bags per acre) with the right agronomy and adequate moisture, but it does require adequate nutrition to achieve this. The amount of fertilizer required is best calculated by multiplying the target yield in tons per hectare, by 20-25 Kg. For a 30 bag per acre crop this is 160 Kg of nitrogen.
Timing is final part of getting fertilizer right; DAP or a compound fertiliser at planting forms a good base for crop emergence, with the balance applied as urea as a topdressing. Soil Mineral Nitrogen testing can help too, by accounting for residual nitrogen in the soil profile.
And finally, top yields require accurate application. This can be discussed in detail with your CropNuts agronomy contact for independent agronomic advice.
When discussing types of fertilizer for Nitrogen topdressing you can always be sure of lots of debate about the merits of Urea vs Ammonium sources such as Calcium Ammonium Nitrate (CAN) .
Urea remains the least expensive form of Nitrogen at around 80 – 90 Kes per kilo of N compared to around 115 – 135 kes in CAN (depends on the volatility of fertilizer bag prices). But what are the likely volatilization losses, and is it possible to go some way predicting this?
Firstly, there is actually surprisingly more data out there than you might imagine given the intensity of the Urea vs CAN debate. The problem is, very little of this work has been carried out in Africa, in our conditions. Should we be worried?
The losses of ammonia measured in a GRDC trial in Australia in liquid fertilizer is summarized in the graph and shows what can happen over 5 days of unfavourable conditions – losses topped out at nearly 30% of the total N applied in the Urea. Ammonium Sulphate lost only around 5% of its nitrogen.
Some very extensive work was carried out in the UK by ADAS in the s which concluded that Urea was only a few percent less efficient that Ammonium Nitrate in most conditions.
More recent work suggests that while urease inhibitors and controlled release fertilisers do work effectively, the overriding views of independent researchers that I speak to is that losses from untreated urea are rarely large enough to make a coating / inhibitor worthwhile.
Looking at recent GRDC work in Australia the consensus is that a maximum of 20% of applied N is lost from Urea, and usually far less (link at the bottom).
That said, in the real world there are often practical reasons for using them as we cannot always spread large acreages in perfect conditions, and if the weather forecast is wrong having some protection on the urea to reduce losses it very desirable.
A study in Brazil showing how urea losses can be mitigated by using an inhibitor or side dressing 2cm deep
Ultimately it comes down to an individual farmer's perception of risk, and farmers should remember that if you happen to be on alkaline soils they behave much differently, as research from Canada highlights.
I reckon that our broadacre clients typically spend between Ksh. 4,000 (USD 40) and Ksh. 11,000 (USD 110) per hectare on topdressing fertilizer for maize, wheat or barley. When you consider the value of the fertilizer that we spread each single season, it is often greater than the value of the machine that we use to apply it.
On top of this, there are so many different grades of the fertilizers available to do the same job; different prill sizes and qualities, nitrogen and sulphur blends for example, that can allow savings in time and money – if they can be spread accurately.
Choosing the correct fertilizer spreader can open up possibilities for the material you spread, and importantly can help you get the job done quickly and efficiently when the application window is right…
This will normally depend on tramline width, but a high quality material such as Yara’s Amidas or ETG’s Kynoplus will happily spread to over 40 metres. Lower quality Ammonium Sulphate and Urea on the other hand is a much less expensive way of buying sulphur, but will require two passes and the AS will struggle to spread even 12 metres.
An important consideration for larger farms, as the option of buying in bulk 1 ton bags will soon become a reality.
The smaller the fields and the more short work you have, the more this will pay you back in reducing overlaps and also minimizing lodging on the headlands. Everyone talks about the pros and cons of Urea vs Calcium Ammonium Nitrate (CAN) fertilizers and volatilization etc. In reality many farmers can improve their efficiency far more by spreading their fertilizer correctly!!! Accurate section control also avoids under-application on the headlands; the largest part of the field.
On-the-move calibration allows lower quality materials to be used, because even when the density changes the spreader adjusts and still applies the same amount. The real top-end machines have torque-sensing on the disc shafts that detect the amount of fertilizer on the disc and adjusts the position of the fertilizer falling onto the disc to maintain the spread pattern.
Bredal have a very good forced metering system using a small belt to deliver the fertilizer right onto the discs. Great for slightly variable quality fertilizer where the odd lump or damp bag needs some help to get through the machine evenly.
Plug-and-go into the tractor controls is a must for section control and allows variable rate application plans to be fed into the machine – something that the very best performers are already doing.
Often forgotten, but making a machine easy to fill can save hours when there is a short window to apply the fertiliser and you are re-filling every 20 minutes. High fill spreaders are great with tractor loaders and handlers, but it is amazing how often you see cracks in the frame where operators drop them right onto the ground to get the hopper low enough.
An important consideration for topdressing tall crops such as Sunflowers!
Easy to couple up to the tractor with no PTO, and more precise disc speed and spread pattern over hilly terrain.
Top Tip – our trials are continually highlighting the need to feed wheat and barley early with a small dose of nitrogen, at the 2-3 leaf stage. Unlike much of the advice taken from Northern Europe for example we plant into warm soils with 12 hours of daylight, and tiller numbers are laid down early. For our agronomy clients this has implications for fertilizer strategies, and topdressing capabilities may require a rethink on some farms.
The company is the world’s best Nitrogen Fertilizer supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.