I recently moved into a 100+ year old home with this rusted cast iron check valve. Because of the rust, we were not able to get the sewer inspected (and also haven’t had it rodded). Since moving in, we’ve had one plumber come out and they suggested digging it out and replacing with PVC for ~$4,500. Alternatively, they quoted cutting off the bolts and re-tapping with new bolts for ~$1,300, though they said they couldn’t guarantee this would work and recommended going the PVC route.
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I’m not sure the last time the sewer has been rodded, so I want to get this resolved ASAP. Is it worth trying to just cut off the bolts and re-tap?
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Also, is there a risk of causing damage to the sewer when getting it rodded if it has possibly been neglected for so long? My fear is that it could be barely holding on and rodding it could cause the pipe to break, resulting in more costly repairs.
Thanks in advance for any input.
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Good Morning All.
I have a 's built house with a cast iron floor drain in my basement floor. This floor drain is within about 10' of my washing machine and is my ONLY floor drain despite having about SF of basement area (dumb dumb dumb). This drain is important as it carries away the coil condensation, dehumidifier condensation (summer), and humidifier water (winter). My washing machine has its own drain...a pipe extending vertically out of the concrete slab behind the washer. This drain and the floor drain are connected in some way(s) as it seems one passes through/by the other.
The cleanout cap was bad and the threads stripped on the cast iron so I used an expanding rubber cap which solved that problem.
The bottom of the floor drain is a 2" hole which had a brass fitting screwed into the bottom. This brass fitting has a rubber seal at the bottom which gives the floating ball a surface to adhere to.
When my washer drains without the clean-out cap installed....I was getting back-wash which can overrun the drain momentarily. The replacement clean-out cap fixed that.
Now I still get some strange activity when the washing machine discharges including a lowered water level in the trap which makes the ball sink and allows sewer gas/smell into the basement to burp out (and inevitably throughout the house as my wife tells me 4 times per week).
I removed the brass fitting and was surprised that the ball is too big to pass through the now open hole? Corrosion around the hole shrunk the circumference?....I dunno. The hole in the bottom of the cast iron floor drain was threaded, however, these basin threads are in poor condition at best and I cannot replace with the old brass fitting or with any threaded item for that matter.
Is there a rubber one way valve that can sit in that rough cast iron 2" basin hole and eliminate sewer gasses while also allowing me to drain condensation lines freely? The edges of the bottom 2" (previously threaded) drain hole are a bit rough....less than ideal for a rubber seal which typically requires a relatively smooth surface for adherence.
I've seen Rectorseal Sureseal product https://www.amazon.com/Sureseal-Sur...ocphy=&hvtargid=pla-&psc=1
and similar products......even a Sioux Chief 2" PVC version of exactly what I already have...but like I said...my cast iron threads in the bottom of the floor drain are shot. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Sioux-C...sImr9aY8AS20lZlibzmLKDWR4LUgWd9hoCqgoQAvD_BwE
I'd prefer to NOT have to cut this whole floor drain out and replace if at all possible.
Help really appreciated. Here are some photos.
Original before removal....bad seal between ball and gasket
Wider View....I replaced that old cast iron plug with expandable rubber plug
after removal of the threaded brass fitting that held the rubber gasket to the bottom for the ball to seal
Removed brass fitting with rubber gasket at bottom
things to concider besides your question.
Why is water backing up? might want to fix that.
Something like a sure seal helps prevent traps from drying and keep some smell out when it does But I dont think is a backwater valve replacement
Thanks Jeff. I agree entirely. I have been testing down there so much that I have determined, rightfully or not, that I am unlikely to have a blocked main line. I have NEVER had any sign of symptom of an obstructed line anywhere in the house at any time.
I have concluded that the rapid pump discharge from the washer....perhaps even with a change in discharge pipe diameter(s)....is too fast/voluminous for that drain line to handle. I have a work sink hooked up to that same drain line and I could run that sink for hours without a backup of any kind....and no movement in the floor drain while running that sink....no seepage back through the cleanout whatsoever.
Now with the floor drain clean out plug properly replaced and with the clothes washer discharging I do see a slight bit of oozing around the cleanout plug....but just a few drops during the height of washer discharge.
I guess I'll just leave that ball down in the P-trap for now. I ordered the "G Green Waterless trap seal" in hopes that it will fit the drain hole https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W2FPBJG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This certainly is in no way a 'backup preventer" whatsoever....I know this. Frankly I'm feeling like I have 'bigger fish to fry' right now. Additionally, I have an old foundation footing drain/pit in same basement that connects directly to the sanitary sewer (old house). Whether or not I had a backup prevention device on my basement floor drain or not....if the city sewer backs up it is/was already coming in that footing drain.
If you have any ideas on 'how to fix that'....I would certainly welcome your input.