One of the most critical issues in compressed air performance is the quality of the air entering your compressor.
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Draw in cool, clean, dry air, and your compressor is good to go, making high-quality compressed air you can distribute throughout your facility.
Unfortunately, the incoming air in most applications is far from pristine. Outside air isn’t a safe bet either: desert air has sand particles, and tropical air has moisture. And even indoor settings can have automotive exhaust or diesel fumes from a nearby loading dock. Remember, an air compressor is like a giant vacuum cleaner; it ingests everything that's in its environment.
Then there’s the indoor air. If your compressor draws air from a production floor, it will carry in anything that’s floating around in your facility: dust, dirt, fumes and moisture.
Your compressor will take those contaminants and jam them together at high concentrations as part of the compression process. That’s what compression does, after all.
Inlet valves are one of the most important and complicated parts of a rotary screw air compressor. They are critical in controlling a compressor’s overall efficiency and energy savings. And they keep the airend from locking up, regulating how much air gets into the airend.
If the inlet filter is clogged, the air compressor will expend more energy to pull air and provide the system with the proper amount of compressed air it needs. Conversely, if the inlet valve brings too much air into the chamber, it could cause over-pressurization, damaging the compressor and nearby equipment.
To learn more about this critical part, read our blog post, “What is the Air Compressor Inlet Valve, and How Does it Work?”
Beyond the inlet valve, the air compressor intake filter ensures that incoming air is clean and free of moisture and contaminants.
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We recommend a visual inspection every week to ensure your filter is in good shape. After turning off the compressor and ensuring there’s no stored pressure, you can open the intake panel or filter housing. The filter is right inside.
Do a visual inspection to ensure the filter is clean. You’ll want to replace it if it’s dirty or it’s been in service more than 4,000 hours or one year. More frequently, if your intake air is dirty or dusty.
It’s not a good idea to save a few cents by buying an aftermarket or competitive filter. Here’s why:
Air compressor intake filters can vary widely among OEMs because compressor manufacturers design their seals and gaskets to handle the pressure differentials specific to their individual machines, sometimes even model-by-model.
An off-brand or aftermarket filter probably won't meet the specifications intended by the OEM’s design engineers and it may invalidate your warranty. That’s why we recommend using genuine OEM filters. As with all parts and supporting materials, it's best to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Any perceived short-term savings you realize by purchasing aftermarket parts could ultimately raise your lifecycle costs, resulting in higher energy use, increased downtime and more frequent replacements.
As Compressed Air Best Practices notes, “The money you save by purchasing generic parts is often the most expensive money you will ever save.”
For more on the value of using OEM parts, read our blog post, “How to Maintain Your Air Compressor with Genuine Spare Parts.”
The company is the world’s best hydraulic driven air compressors supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
67 Fastback; said: Your telling me I need to spend bux just to spray a little primer here and there. Just not feasible for the average hobbyist.
Bill
67 Fastback; said: I want to do it right, but bux just to spray some primer is unrealistic. I'm sure a lot of guys on here are spraying primer without that cost. I'm just the average guy that's not doing this for a living, just as a hobby.
What's wrong with something like this?
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=jvtHTu6qG8agtgeMmuGsBw&sqi=2&ved=0CGoQ8wIwAg
or this
http://www.google.com/products/cata...ei=2PtHTvWQHoiXtwesyJHWBQ&ved=0CLUBEPMCMAY4Cg
Thanks for the advice, Bill
shine; said: you have to have clean air and enough volume to run the gun. cheap guns waste air and materials . running a hoae off a cheap compressor is going to create nothing but problems. you cant build a motor with vise grips and a bent screw driver and you cant shoot paint without the proper equipment and materials.
LostMy65; said: Can we find a reasonable compromise between a $15 Harbor Freight gun and $300 gun?The guys here don't lie. They also don't mess around, You can't when your doing bodywork. Don't expect a pro to trust a $10 gun on a $10k paintjob.
It's posted all over that SPI is fantastic epoxy, but it's only $180 to prime a whole car.
So maybe we don't need a $300 gun, especially if we just want to do one panel at a time.
Can there be a recommendation for the guy that found it in his budget to buy $180 worth of primer and isn't worried about wasting a quart of primer?
All I want to do for myself is to preserve my classic as I tinker on the weekends in my garage.
As I strip a panel, I want to protect it with epoxy.
I'm 46, and I don't have the money, and I'm not retired, and I don't want my truck to rust away, and I want to use SPI epoxy.
dukess396; said: The guys here don't lie. They also don't mess around, You can't when your doing bodywork. Don't expect a pro to trust a $10 gun on a $10k paintjob.
I use the infamous HF Purple gun to spray epoxy, but thats it. I get about 1 gal out of one before its junk, leaking past the seals, etc. I have a Matco tools gun with a larger tip for 2k primer, and a good gun for spraying color and clear. I don't have a dedicated base coat gun (yet). All in all, I still have $500
wrapped up in spray guns, thats less than some guys spend on a gun just to spray clear. You have to have a dedicated set up to spray. I use a inexpensive water separator regulator with a dessicant snake, and a dedicated air hose. SPI is fantastic epoxy, buy not if your gonna spray it out of a squirt gun with oily watery lines. I spent enough on tools, equipment, and materials when I sprayed my car, to have paid a pro to do it. In the end, I learned more than I assumed I already knew, and I have a car that looks like a pro did it.