I'm working on a booster pump for a gas chlorine system. The client is determined to include gas chlorine in lieu of hypochlorite, so that issue is settled. I'm having some reservation with settling on a booster pump for the ejector. The ejector to be provided by the supplier is a REGAL 13A which manufacturers literature states a requirement of 132PSI and 5.1 GPM. The 13A is rated for 10PPD. My design feed rate is 5 PPD. This seems logical.
My well pump system will be approximately 90 PSI at the chlorination point. Thus, I have considered the following calculation: 132 PSI (required) - 90 PSI (available) + 5 PSI (assumed booster pump losses) = 47PSI = 109 Ft TDH
So, I'm looking for a booster pump to provide something close to 5GPM at 110 Ft TDH. I've been looking at the Franklin Electric BT4, but the smallest pump (5gpm) that they make is 1 / 3 HP and in moves 7 gpm at 140 at the far right point on the curve.
I guess I feel like it's fairly unrealistic to think I'll find a pump that meets my conditions exactly and I'm not sure which direction to go from there. Do I get the 1/ 3 HP BT4 and try to size the discharge piping to impose additional friction losses (this seems illogical in that it would require friction of about 200 feet of ½" SCH80 pvc) or perhaps just close a discharge valve to create the loss? How much leeway do I have based on the requirements listed on the ejector literature? If I can't meet it exactly, which way should I lean? Should I consider that the published literature is rated for 10PPD and my feed rate is 5 PPD? Any suggestions/direction would be appreciated.
I am not sure what the curve for the Franklin pump looks like. I have always used a turbine style pump for chlorine feed water applications. An APCO/Aurora/Pentair E4 will supply 5 GPM at 115 Ft and RPM. Look at some small turbine pump curves. The pump need not be stainless unless the supply water has a high concentration of bad stuff. As this is a booster application I guess not. REAGLE is a very nice company to work with and the 13A should be fine selection. Your piping should look like Fig 1 in the REAGLE Bulletin No. , less the well pump, meter and check.
Steve
get a baby booster, which one is up to you but doesn't really matter which one you get, they're all equally inefficient for what they are. Used is fine, but if it needs rebuild, budget about $400 for the parts from Haskel. They do have service videos on youtube, they're stupid easy to rebuild.
I would recommend spending a bit of money filtering the shop compressor. Clean though you may think, your booster will appreciate cleaning and it needs to be filtered to 5um or so per the manufacturer.
I got one of these for my AG30 which spits out Grade D air which is more than clean enough for boosters. Only difference between it and scuba "grade e" air is the conversion of co to co2 which the booster doesn't care about. Costs about $400 and is probably more than overkill, but if it saves at least one rebuild of my AG30 over the life that I have it, it will have paid for itself just in the parts
350 SERIES Modular Clean Air Package 1/4, 3/8, 1/2
After that, there isn't a lot to it. You'll want to keep it cycling less than 1 cycle per second, open valves slowly, etc etc. The manuals out there are pretty good.
I was planning on a dryer and I have had good success using motorgaurd filter on the shop air. Painters love them, my plasma torch has always been happy with one in place for the past 15 years. I've always heard of them as a great compressed air filter. My intention is to just use the compressor at home as drive gas. Any breathing air will still come from the dive shop (the local one that doesn't pump O2). I still have plenty of big tanks around.
I wasn't sure if there are any to avoid? Or any that have an outstanding reputation, or crap reputation? I understand that they are not efficient, nor do I really care. I have been watching used ones pop up, but not knowing much about them I tend to back pedal a little not knowing what I am looking for, or what I should be looking for. When they sell right away I guess that was a good one, but I wouldn't know if something that isn't worth rebuilding.
@broncobowsher depends on the degree of filtration from the motorguard, but if you have one of those they will certainly help, especially with a drier. I got the clean air package to put in my pelican case so I can use any air source, but if you have this thing permanently mounted then a drier and something like the motorguard should be fine, just make sure the filtration level is low enough to at least meet the factory recommendation for the booster you purchase.
that's a great deal. Spend about $800 or so on the parts I think since it is 2-stage and O2 clean it and you have the gold standard of O2 boosters on the market for less than half price *New is $7k*. A new baby booster is $, so an extra grand and you get 30:1 instead of 25:1 *really nice for dil bottles since the baby booster dies around psi vs. psi for the 15/30* and a lot more capacity since it's a beast.
Haskel Booster
@broncobowsher depends on the degree of filtration from the motorguard, but if you have one of those they will certainly help, especially with a drier. I got the clean air package to put in my pelican case so I can use any air source, but if you have this thing permanently mounted then a drier and something like the motorguard should be fine, just make sure the filtration level is low enough to at least meet the factory recommendation for the booster you purchase.
that's a great deal. Spend about $800 or so on the parts I think since it is 2-stage and O2 clean it and you have the gold standard of O2 boosters on the market for less than half price *New is $7k*. A new baby booster is $, so an extra grand and you get 30:1 instead of 25:1 *really nice for dil bottles since the baby booster dies around psi vs. psi for the 15/30* and a lot more capacity since it's a beast.
Haskel Booster
I looked at that used one. The assortment of used red shop hose and what looked like a garden valve was not that appealing to me. Looking at that one, then looking at a brand new baby booster at what is the same price, the baby looks like a better deal to me. Add in the $800 rebuild. Not knowing much about them to start with, starting with a good new unit looks better.
I'm not looking to fill to , just 200~232bar. Is there something that the 2-stage offers that would be a huge benefit? I'm not looking to pump up 120s, mostly just 3L rebreather bottles. Maybe top off a bail out a time or two a year.
I get it, pump slow. Open valves slow. Don't be in any hurry. I've only had one accidental Oxygen fire, few more intentional. I've owned oxy-fuel torch set for a very long time.
Everything seems to be centered around a Haskel, anything else I should consider? At the moment a Haskel baby booster is probably the direction I am leaning. For roughly $2k new I wouldn't really have to worry about used issues. And I do realize there will be way too much money tied up in whips and tank adaptors on top of it as well.