A hammer is so much more than just a handle and a hammer head. There’s more to the humble hammer than the typical layperson might think. To learn more about the hammer, which models and which features work best for everyone from a seasoned pro to a newbie DIYer, we reached out to Charlie Vaughan, a fifth-generation hammer maker. In addition to Vaughan, we reached out to a product service manager at Stiletto and had a few conversations with people in the trades about which hammers they use and why.
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Ultimately, choosing the right hammer comes down to how it feels in your hand as well as how you plan to use it. If you’re looking for a hammer, here’s everything you need to know along with some of our favorite product recommendations.
The three most basic handle options are steel, fiberglass, and wood. Hammer handles come in a variety of lengths and most are available in either a straight, curved, or hatchet style configuration. Learn some hammer hacks here.
Steel handles are the strongest of the bunch. It’s tough to beat a solid or welded piece of steel when it comes to overall strength. But steel is also the heaviest option, and that extra weight doesn’t necessarily mean that steel-handled hammers pack more punch. A lot of the hammer’s weight is down away from the strike point, so it doesn’t actually affect the striking power. Steel hammers are the worst offenders for causing vibrations that impact the user. Heavy vibrations can lead to repetitive strain injuries and other ailments. Because of their strength, steel-handled hammers are a favorite among masons and demo crews.
We recommend this 16-ounce curved claw model from Estwing.
“With all the nailing guns out there, most people these days use their hammer for ‘destruction’ rather than ‘construction,'” says Charlie Vaughn, president of Vaughn Manufacturing. “So the kind of hammer you want really depends on what you’re going to do with the hammer. For demolition, steel would be the best choice.”
Fiberglass handles transmit less vibration than steel, but still more than wood. Electricians love fiberglass handles because they are non-conductive. Plumbers and mechanics tend to prefer fiberglass because a decent one can be had for not a lot of money.
We recommend this 7-ounce model from Stanley.
“All I really use a hammer for are small jobs like tacking up pipe hangers and tapping on a putty knife or screwdriver,” says plumber Les Zell. “And my hammers tend to get left at jobs, stolen, or lost behind walls, so I tend to carry an inexpensive one.”
Wood handles transmit less vibration than fiberglass and much less vibration than metal handles. Wood is also the lightest handle material, which means most of the weight is up in the head (where it counts). Wood handles can be replaced if they are damaged and can even be customized for those uber-particular hammer connoisseurs out there. Wood handles are strong, but not as strong as steel, so not the best option for demo work.
If a hammer is going to hang from your pouch all day long, you probably don’t want it to be super heavy. And if you pound on a whole bunch of nails, a low vibrating wood handle is just the ticket. So, naturally, wood handles are typically preferred by framers, trim carpenters, and siding installers.
We recommend this 16-ounce rip hammer from Vaughan & Bushnell.
“When it comes to fewer vibrations, wood handles are by far the best,” says Vaugh. “And when it comes to the best type of wood, hickory is the only way to go.”
Most hammer handles are 14 to 18 inches long and are available in either a straight, curved or hatchet style. Hatchet-style hammer handles are a bit narrower than straight handles.
Some remodelers like 16-in. handles because they can use them as a quick guide to locating (not layout) a stud behind drywall or sheathing if they know the location of an adjacent stud. There are also siding installers who spend a good portion of the day on ladders and don’t like long hatchet-style handles or curved handles, because they tend to protrude forward just far enough to catch on the rungs when climbing down a ladder.
Many plumbers, electricians and mechanical workers often find themselves crawling around in tight spaces and therefore prefer short hammers, because they’re less likely to get hung up.
Some folks just love the feel of wood, and most wood handle hammers don’t have a grip material added to them. Cushy handle grips feel good but also tend to wear faster. Trim carpenters often choose grips with a rubber bottom so the handle doesn’t leave a mark when they squat down or bump into finished surfaces.
“I swing the 15 oz. Estwing Ultra, smooth face. I use it for demo, framing, trim, dirt digger,” says Josh Blake, a carpenter. “Can’t beat the classic Estwing grip and the side nail puller is super handy.”
Most hammer heads weigh anywhere between 16 and 22 ounces. But that can be a little misleading because there’s no industry standard on how to weigh a hammer head. Weighing a hammer head with wooden and fiberglass handles is straightforward: just take the head off the handle and weigh it. But there is more of a gray area when it comes to hammers that are made with integrated steel handles and strike guards.
There are several things to consider when it comes to the weight of a hammer:
How you use it: If you do a lot of hammering above your head or even straight on, then lighter is better. If you are always swinging down low, like a mason building forms, then heavy is okay.
How often you use it: If it’s necessary that a hammer hangs from your pouch all day, but you use it infrequently, buy a lighter hammer. There’s no point in carrying around a massive weight on your side if you barely ever use it.
Your strength: Remember high school physics? Here’s a quick refresher: Force = Mass x Acceleration. This means a heavier hammer packs a larger wallop. BUT that’s only if you can swing the beast. There’s a point where a hammer becomes too heavy to swing fast, and a greater force would be achieved by swinging a lighter hammer, faster. What that point is will depend on the strength of the swinger.
Balance: Some folks love to swing a hammer with a super heavy head and a feather-light handle. Some prefer a hammer with a lower center of gravity like steel handled hammers have. Whenever possible, swing a hammer before buying one. Ask your friends, neighbors or the folks around you on a jobsite to try out their hammer before buying yours.
“The idea of balance means that weight is evenly distributed between top and bottom AND forward and backward,” says Vaughn. “A well-balanced hammer will HELP swing itself. If you have an unbalanced hammer you might have less work hitting the nail but MORE work bringing it back up…unbalanced hammers cause muscles to ache after use!”
This is an easy decision. A milled-faced hammer (sometimes called waffle-head) has a little traction, if you will, and is designed to drive in a nail without bending it over. But that final blow is going to leave a waffle shaped mark on the surface. That’s okay for rough framing, but if you work with any material like interior trim, where a waffle-shaped mark would be undesirable, then get yourself a hammer with a smooth-faced head.
“I use three different DeWalt hammers. The 22oz framing hammer, the 14oz finish hammer, and the 22oz demo hammer,” says general contractor Stu Cushman. “I swear by all of them for the comfort of handles, longer necks, and oversized faces. I can swing them all day and not get fatigued, the balance is awesome. I’ve been a carpenter/general carpenter for over 25 years and use a hammer for almost everything I do. I have found that the DeWalt line works best for me.”
Hammers with a titanium head typically cost between $75 and $200, but they can reach the $300 neighborhood. So what do you get for all that money? More bang where you want it. When a steel head strikes a nail, about 30% of the energy from the blow recoils back up the hammer. When a titanium hammer head strikes a nail, only 3% of the energy bounces back. This means a titanium hammer will get the same results as a much-heavier steel hammer.
Also, this recoiled energy from a steel hammer head doesn’t just vanish into the ether; some of it will find its way back into the joints of the person swinging the hammer in the form of vibrations. If you pound in a bunch of nails every day and would enjoy properly functioning wrists, elbows, and shoulders 10 years from now, then invest in a titanium head hammer.
We recommend this model from Stiletto.
“All day, every day I swing a 14-oz. Stiletto with an 18-in. wooden handle,” says framing carpenter Jonah Jardine. “It doesn’t weigh hardly anything, but it swings like a 24-oz. monster.”
Titanium hammers are genuinely amazing, but be advised: You may want to keep a steel hammer on hand for your demo work because steel is actually harder than titanium. Or you could buy a hammer with a steel head (or head face) and a titanium handle, combining the best of both worlds.
“We do not recommend excessively beating on hardened steel objects such as steel nail pullers, pry & crow bars, concrete stakes, foundation bolts, scaffolding pins & cup-locks, etc., as these objects will cause the milling on the solid Stiletto titanium hammer face to wear down faster, just as they would on a steel milled face,” says Joel Allen, manager of sales & service for Stiletto Tools. “The wear is typically just faster when used [titanium] in these applications, but usually no chipping or spalling (mushrooming) occurs.”
Flat-top hammers are steadily becoming more popular. The flat-top allows the head to get into tighter spots. Plus, they look cool!
Non-steel handles can get beat up by misses. You know, those times when you miss the nail and the handle smashes against the surface. If you love wood handles and want to prevent them from getting beat up by overstrikes, consider a hammer with overstrike protection, like the one pictured above.
We recommend this model from Vaughan.
“I’m a wood handle guy, but when my crew gets their hands on them (especially the newbies), they tend to beat up the handles pretty good,” says Lee Nelson, remodeler and tree service professional, Shell Lake, Wisconsin. “I started buying the Vaughan Dalluge 16-oz. hammers with the strike guard. They work awesome, and no more shredded handles.
Really, to each his own. There are dozens of specialty hammer heads to choose from, and it really just matters how you use your hammer and how good it feels in your hand. The hammer shown above is a Japanese hammer with a uniquely shaped head.What the pros had to say:
“Once you’ve found a favorite hammer, nothing else compares,” says Brad Holden, woodworker and Family Handyman editor. “About 20 years ago, I took a chance on this odd-looking hammer. I was relieved to find the balance and feel exactly to my liking. Besides the perfect feel, there are some nice extras. The steep claw angle gives ample leverage for pulling nails. Also, the claw’s tips are pointed to aid in digging out nails that are sunk below the surface. A milled face on the side of the head allows “sideways” hammering in tight quarters. I don’t use it often, but it has saved me more than once.”
There are two types of straight clawed hammers: short and long. Long, straight claws are sharper and work great for stabbing into a hunk of wood if you want to grab hold of it. But straight claws are also thinner and can break off in a severe demo situation. Short claws are more rugged but don’t pierce wood as well.
Curved claws can pull most nails out of wood without the aid of a spacer, but provide less leverage than straight claws. Curved claws also don’t protrude as far out, which makes a curved-clawed hammer less likely to get hung up on obstacles or jab you in the leg when crawling around tight spaces.
It used to be that the best way to get the most leverage when pulling a stubborn nail was to wedge the nail between the claws and pull the hammer sideways. Now most manufacturers have at least a few models with a built-in side puller. The first ones to hit the market were kind of clunky, but now many are hardly noticeable.
Some manufacturers offer replaceable or interchangeable parts like handle grips, hammer faces, and even the hammer heads themselves. This model from Martinez has a replaceable head and grip.
“I love the Martinez M1,” says Pádraig (Podge) Maloney. “I’m a framer who also hangs siding and installs exterior trim, windows and doors my projects. I use both the smooth and milled heads on my M1. That way I don’t need multiple hammers for different purposes, and swapping the heads takes less than five minutes. Plus, I can swing that titanium all day without any elbow issues.”
The company is the world’s best hammer manufacturers supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.
Here’s one for you demolition heads. The claw on this hammer is adjustable, so you can pull nails with more leverage or get into those hard-to-reach areas.
We love this model from Crescent.
From the earliest days of human civilization, the hammer has been an important tool, aiding in tasks from the simplest household repairs to the most complex construction projects. Its origins date back to prehistoric times when early humans used stones as rudimentary hammers for tasks like cracking nuts and shaping tools.
As civilizations advanced, so did the hammer, evolving from simple stone tools to sophisticated metal implements. By definition, a hammer is a hand tool consisting of a weighted head fixed to a long handle, used to deliver an impact to a small area of an object. This tool is used to drive nails, fit parts, forge metal, and break apart objects among others.
This article offers an insightful exploration of the different types of hammers, each meticulously engineered to fulfill specific requirements across various industries. Whether it's driving nails into hardwood, forming metal, or carefully setting tiles, the right hammer is important in every industry’s tool system.
Hammers can be broadly categorized into two main groups: basic and specialized hammers. Basic hammers are versatile and commonly found in most toolkits, suitable for general use. Some of the basic hammers include:
The claw hammer is perhaps the most recognizable of all the hammer types. It's primarily known for its versatility in the field of carpentry. The claw hammer comes with a smooth, flat face for driving nails into wood, and a claw for prying them out. Because of its dual-purpose head and comfortable grip, it's considered an essential tool for any general carpentry work or simple DIY jobs around the house.
Also referred to as the engineer's hammer, the ball peen hammer is primarily used in metalworking. It features a flat striking face suitable for hammering out dents and shaping metals, while the rounded peen on the opposite side allows for riveting and shaping metalwork – an invaluable tool for any machinist or metal smith.
When brute force is required, the sledgehammer is the go-to. With a long handle and a heavy, flat, large striking head, it is designed for demolition tasks, driving stakes, and other heavy-duty applications. Its substantial size and weight make it ideal for breaking through concrete, stone, and other tough materials.
For jobs requiring a gentle touch, the rubber mallet is the most ideal. This hammer provides a softer impact, minimizing damage to the work surface. Commonly used in woodworking, upholstery, and where the surface finish is crucial, the rubber mallet ensures that materials are not marred during the construction process.
A club hammer, also known as a lump hammer or mini sledge, is a compact but powerful tool designed for heavy-duty striking tasks. It features a double-faced head typically weighing between 2 to 4 pounds mounted on a short handle. It's commonly used in construction, metalworking, and stonework for applications such as driving steel chisels, setting masonry nails, or breaking small rocks.
As summarized in the table below, while there are many types of hammers available, each one is adapted to specific tasks:
Type Head Handle Material Primary Use Claw Hammer Flat face with claw Wood, fiberglass, steel Driving and removing nails, general carpentry Ball Peen Hammer Flat face with rounded peen Wood, fiberglass Metalworking, riveting, shaping metal Sledgehammer Large, flat, heavy head Wood, fiberglass Demolition, driving stakes, breaking concrete Rubber Mallet Soft rubber head Wood, fiberglass Gentle assembly, woodworking, upholstery Club Hammer Double-faced, compact head Wood, fiberglass Driving chisels, setting masonry nails, breaking small rocksSpecialized hammers are crafted for particular industries or tasks, offering unique features that cater to specific needs. Some of the common specialized hammers are:
The framing hammer is a robust cousin of the claw hammer, featuring a heavier head and a milled face, which aids in preventing the head from slipping when it strikes a nail. Often used in the construction of wooden frames, it is a vital tool in a carpenter's kit for its ability to drive large nails into dimensional lumber swiftly.
A brick hammer, also known as a masonry hammer or bricklayer's hammer, features a flat striking face on one side and a chisel-like blade on the other. Its unique design combines the functions of a hammer and a chisel, making it ideal for cutting, shaping, and setting bricks, concrete blocks, and other masonry materials. The brick hammer is primarily used in construction and renovation projects involving brickwork
Specifically designed for drywall projects, the drywall hammer has a milled face for grip and a hatchet-like back for making cuts. This specialized tool features a sharp axe edge that can score and shape drywall panels with precision. The drywall hammer's unique design also includes a notch in the neck for pulling misplaced nails, making it an all-in-one tool that exemplifies the targeted evolution of hammers to cater to the needs of drywall installation and removal.
The electrician's hammer's design mirrors that of traditional hammers but with a focus on safety, where the rubberized, insulated handle provides protection from electric shocks. This tool enables electricians to work safely on electrical components without compromising on hammer functionality.
Dead blow hammers are engineered to deliver powerful strikes with minimal rebound, protecting the work surface from damage. This type of hammer is often used in automotive work, cabinetry, and for applications where controlling the force of the blow is as important as the impact itself.
Also known as a chipping hammer, the welding hammer typically features a dual-purpose head with a pointed chisel end and a flat striking surface. The pointed end helps remove slag and spatter after welding, while the flat end can be used for light peening to relieve stress in welds. The hammer's handle is usually made of spring steel or wood, providing flexibility to absorb shock and reduce hand fatigue during prolonged use.
The cross pein hammer features a standard flat face on one side and a wedge-shaped pein oriented perpendicular to the handle on the other. This unique design allows for precise striking in tight spaces and is particularly useful for starting small nails or tacks without damaging surrounding surfaces. Cross pein hammers are commonly used in metalworking, jewelry making, and fine woodworking where accuracy and control are crucial.
A trim hammer is a smaller, lighter version of a claw hammer, typically weighing between 10 to 13 ounces with a smooth face and a curved claw. Its compact size and reduced weight make it ideal for delicate finish work, installing trim, moldings, and other light carpentry tasks where a full-sized hammer might be too cumbersome. The trim hammer's design allows for greater precision and reduces the risk of damaging softer woods or leaving hammer marks on finished surfaces.
Detail-oriented tasks, such as upholstery work or setting tacks into picture frames, demand the precision of a tack hammer. This lightweight hammer often features a magnetized striking face to help hold and place tacks or small nails, allowing for delicate work where accuracy is essential.
Soft face hammers or mallets feature heads made from materials like rubber, plastic, copper, or rawhide, mounted on a wooden or fiberglass handle. These tools are designed to deliver impact force without damaging or marring the surface of the workpiece, making them ideal for woodworking, automotive work, and assembly tasks involving delicate materials. The softer head material allows for controlled force application and can be used on surfaces where metal hammers might cause dents, scratches, or other unwanted marks.
The hammer is composed of several carefully designed parts that work together to deliver powerful and precise strikes. Let's break down the essential parts of a hammer as shown in the image above:
When selecting a hammer, several key factors come into play to make sure you choose the right tool for your specific needs. For starters, it is important to consider the task or project at hand because certain tasks demand specific hammer types. A claw hammer is ideal for driving nails and light prying, while a ball peen hammer is suited for metalworking tasks like riveting. Other factors to consider include:
The hammer head on nearly all types of hammers is typically made up of the same material – steel that is heat treated for hardness. However, the material of the hammer handle varies and is important in your selection process.
Wooden handles offer a classic feel with effective shock absorption while providing some insulation. Fiberglass handles contend with wooden ones by providing increased durability and resistance to weathering without the concern for rot that afflicts wood. Steel handles, known for their strength, offer robustness but can be heavier and transmit more vibration unless integrated with anti-vibration technologies.
Handle Material Pros Cons Common Uses Wood Shock absorption, Insulation Can rot, Less durable than synthetics Carpentry, General Use Fiberglass Durable, Weather-resistant Can be more expensive than wood Carpentry, DIY Projects Steel Longevity, Robustness Heavier, Transmits vibrations Heavy-duty Work, DemolitionHammer head weight and handle length are crucial in determining the right tool for a job. Heavier heads provide more driving force, suitable for demanding tasks such as framing, while a longer handle enhances leverage at the cost of requiring more user control. The balance between head weight and handle length needs consideration to match the task at hand; an unwieldy hammer can reduce work efficiency and increase the risk of error.
Accuracy and safety are important in any project, and the hammer’s grip plays an integral role in both. A well-designed grip, often rubber or a composite material, ensures a secure hold to prevent slippage and reduce hand fatigue. Hammers are tailored to reduce user fatigue and increase safety. Ergonomically designed handles and grips vary among hammers to suit different durations and intensities of use.
Precautions need to be taken to prevent injuries and to ensure that the functionality of the tools is maintained, allowing for professional outcomes in every project. Here are some of the best practices in using hammers:
Safety First: Always ensure that your work area is clear of clutter and that you have a stable standing position before swinging your hammer.
Choose the Right Hammer: Match the tool to the job—select from the various types of hammers for the task that you are performing, such as a framing hammer for building work or a rubber mallet for softer materials.
Proper Technique: Grip the hammer handle near the end for the most control and power, and keep your eye on the point of contact while swinging with a smooth, fluid motion.
Maintain Your Tools: Check regularly for signs of wear or damage, such as cracks in the handle or looseness in the head, and replace or repair as needed.
The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) outlines standards for hand tool safety, emphasizing the importance of inspecting hammers before use and recommending practices such as using a hammer with a securely mounted head and discarding tools with splintered, cracked, or loose handles. By following these OSHA guidelines, workers not only ensure personal safety but also uphold the integrity of their work by using the different types of hammers as they are intended.
Care for different types of hammers starts with routine inspections. Checking for chips, cracks, or signs of wear on the hammer's head can inform you when it's time to repair or replace it. Pay special attention to the neck of the hammer, as a warped neck can compromise the hammer's striking capability.
Additionally, inspect the handle, looking for signs of damage or weakness. Wooden handles are particularly prone to splintering over time, which could result in a dangerous loss of control during use. By being vigilant and addressing any issues early, you'll ensure that your hammer is always ready for the task at hand.
The way you store your hammers can also significantly impact their condition. Moisture and temperature extremes can be detrimental, especially to wooden-handled hammers. Opt for a dry, temperate environment for storage, and avoid leaving hammers lying around on the ground where they can be exposed to these damaging elements.
A proper storage system, whether it's a tool belt, workbench rack, or a toolbox, not only keeps your tools organized but also prevents unnecessary wear and potential accidents. Remember, storing your hammers correctly is an easy step that contributes greatly to their longevity and your safety.
There are over 50 different types of hammers, each designed for specific tasks. Common examples include claw hammers, sledgehammers, ball peen hammers, and specialty hammers like the blacksmith's hammer and the joiner's mallet.
The sledgehammer is considered one of the strongest types of hammers. It has a large, heavy head and is used for tasks requiring significant force, such as breaking concrete or driving stakes.
The claw hammer is the most common type of hammer. It is widely used for driving and pulling nails in woodworking and general household tasks.
The big hammer is called a sledgehammer. It features a large, heavy head and is used for heavy-duty tasks like demolition and driving stakes.
A soft hammer is called a mallet. Mallets can be made from materials like wood, rubber, or plastic and are used to strike surfaces without causing damage.
A round head hammer is known as a ball peen hammer. It has a rounded end opposite the flat striking face, and it's commonly used in metalworking for tasks like peening and shaping metal.
Ball peen hammers typically weigh between 8 ounces and 32 ounces, with the weight varying based on the specific needs of the task.
A drilling hammer, also known as a club hammer or hand sledge, has a short handle and a heavy head. It is used for driving chisels, masonry nails, and small demolition tasks.
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