Aluminum air lines | The Garage Journal

The problem with those quick aluminum setups is making modifications, extensions, or fixing leaks a few years from now when the company that made them has gone out of business. Many businesses fail and many more will fail over the next few years. Iron pipe and fittings will be available for our lifetimes.

I sale & install quit a bit of Prevost ALR pipe. The aluminum pipe is great product, there various mfg. making & marketing aluminum air piping systems. Each brand has their pro & cons. I don't see the big players going out of business. I can't image Ingersol Rand going out of business.

The product is easily modified. You can add a drop easily, most cases no cutting of the pipe. Cuts with a tubing cutter. As far as leaks, most brands are sealed with an O-ring.

Pricing on the average is between Black Iron & Copper K.

I personally don't believe in using black iron for compressed air. I'm in the business to provide clean, dry air. I like copper, but not black iron. Not everybody agrees. Aluminum pipe systems have negatives also, but the positives out weigh the negatives.

You dont follow, as usual.

Why would you even think of relying on 0-rings, when a threaded/sweat-soldered connection is so damn bullet-proof?

And you do know that there are MANY grades of O-rings, right?

Bullet-proof, my ass. I fixed about 10 gas leaks at the house today, and have about another 15 joints to fix in the morning.

I tried plumbing my air compressor with Lowe's fittings, fat fucking chance. I tried pipe dope, pipe tape, pipe tape and pipe dope, waiting 24 hours for pressure, none of it worked. I ended up buying high dollar US fittings to get no leaks.


As far as fire, if it gets hot enough to melt solder or aluminum, or even an o-ring for that matter, there's nothing left at that point, anyway. You can play what-if's, all day long, but shit will happen either way. If it hits temps to melt solder, all my paint cans will blow up, all the aerosol sprays will blow up, the gas cans will melt, the oil jugs will have melted, the acetone/mek/mineral spirits will have gone up, my wood work bench will have gone up, adding air is a moot point by then. Have any of you ever used a bellows on a fire? The air stream makes things burn very fast and very hot. That is why fire and building codes specify iron pipe. The fire has to be really hot to hurt it. It just gives the fire dept and your family some additional time to save things and the differences were well documented in testing. There are good reasons for those codes.

An approved cabinet for storing flammables will help also. They are expensive but I found a 30 gallon unit for $100 at a freight salvage place with only one small scratch and no dents.

Make sure your local fire department knows where you store flammable items like paints, gas, welding gas, solvent based insecticides, etc as well as where your compressor tanks sits.

BTW, those cheapo import threaded fittings ARE a nightmare. Save yourself a headache and buy the good stuff. The stuff at the home box stores can be OK at times but check them. The import stuff has improved greatly over the last 10 years.

Bullet-proof, my ass. I fixed about 10 gas leaks at the house today, and have about another 15 joints to fix in the morning.

Just to make you aware, I am NOT talking about black iron. Did you not read that?

I sure hope you are not running gas in copper.

Either way, it isnt the pipes fault the installer did a half-ass job.
Pipe fittings/joints last a LONG time. I have done propane to natural gas retrofits in homes that have 30+ year old black iron systems in them. More often than not, the system passes a pressure drop test as-is.

I tried plumbing my air compressor with Lowe's fittings, fat fucking chance. I tried pipe dope, pipe tape, pipe tape and pipe dope, waiting 24 hours for pressure, none of it worked. I ended up buying high dollar US fittings to get no leaks.

So... whats the problem again?

You buy cheap fittings, and Ill assume cheap pre-threaded nipples, and you are complaining that they are crap?

No matter really, Ill bet money that it was operator error again. If you were working with steel pipe fittings, Ill bet you simply did not have the fittings tight enough. Pipe threads only seal when TIGHT.

Have any of you ever used a bellows on a fire? The air stream makes things burn very fast and very hot. That is why fire and building codes specify iron pipe. The fire has to be really hot to hurt it. It just gives the fire dept and your family some additional time to save things and the differences were well documented in testing. There are good reasons for those codes.QUOTE]

Correct. If a fire starts to break out in the garage/shop it can burn up the oxygen with in the room but stay in a smoldering state. It can still be hot enough to melt solder though and if there is approx 150# of presure wanting to seperate the copper lines it will aid in it, thus feeding the smoldering fire and then it can take off and spread rapidly.
Never store flamibles close to water heaters, furnesses, or items that create sparks.

Just to make you aware, I am NOT talking about black iron. Did you not read that?

I sure hope you are not running gas in copper.

Either way, it isnt the pipes fault the installer did a half-ass job.
Pipe fittings/joints last a LONG time. I have done propane to natural gas retrofits in homes that have 30+ year old black iron systems in them. More often than not, the system passes a pressure drop test as-is.




So... whats the problem again?

You buy cheap fittings, and Ill assume cheap pre-threaded nipples, and you are complaining that they are crap?

No matter really, Ill bet money that it was operator error again. If you were working with steel pipe fittings, Ill bet you simply did not have the fittings tight enough. Pipe threads only seal when TIGHT.

Other than at the end, copper isn't threaded connections (and not even then, sometimes), hence why I thought you were talking pipe.

These lines are probably 15-20 years old, I doubt it's an installer issue. One fitting is leaking to where you can smell it when you're close (I had my nose about 5" away from it while working on something), the others I couldn't smell, but the detector shows it. It could easily pass a pressure drop test, but it's still not acceptable to me.

I know how pipe fittings seal, these didn't. when you're heaving on 24" pipe wrenches on 1/2" line and it doesn't seal, they're junk. I got tot he point of stripping a few fittings and finally gave up on them, no operator error. the other fittings went right on, no leaks, first time around. I probably had the system apart 10-15 times witht he other fittings.

Hardly splitting hairs.

Lets take a specific example, that would apply to 90% of this board.

Say a fire erupts in the garage/shop. Oily rags thrown into a barrel that self-ignite. That fire needs FUEL, the primary one being Oxygen, secondary being that of some sort of combustible material.

A roaring fire runs out of oxygen FAST. You should know this, if you have ever burned wood in an air-tight wood stove.

Get a good fire going, then shut the damper and choke it down.

What happens when you open the door

Yeah, except a garage is hardly air-tight, and even if it was, has a lot of air in it. By the time it's used up air, it's burned a hole through to air anyway. Also, how much air would a 60 gallon 150 p.s.i. air compressor add? I doubt it would be that much.

Again, it could make a slight difference, but I have a hard time seeing it being significant. The wood walls in my den are probably as dangerous.

Hardly splitting hairs.

Lets take a specific example, that would apply to 90% of this board.

Say a fire erupts in the garage/shop. Oily rags thrown into a barrel that self-ignite. That fire needs FUEL, the primary one being Oxygen, secondary being that of some sort of combustible material.

A roaring fire runs out of oxygen FAST. You should know this, if you have ever burned wood in an air-tight wood stove.

Get a good fire going, then shut the damper and choke it down.

What happens when you open the door

This is getting a little off of subject, but very important notes to take.
This is correct, but a little correction. The fuel is the rag and chemical and those two make a reaction to create heat the third element in the Tetrahedron.

It takes three things to make a fire. Fuel(wood, gas, plastic, etc), Oxygen(self explanitory), and Heat(spark, fire, hot atmosphear), and now a fourth that takes place is called the chemical chain reaction. 66L78, Check to see if the aluminum system is ASME or ASTM tested and to what standards. Compare this to copper and threaded pipe. Remember that there is also welded pipe and pex to through into this discussion. I have seen pvc pipe used but would not recommend it because if there is a pressure failure there could be shrapnal produced which could cause additional injury. What you really want to know: is the piping system suitable for the application and enviroment? Additionally, us must identify the max working pressure of the pipe and if it is air compatable. Some piping systems and corresponding fittings are not.

In my opinion, most garages and small shops only require 3 to 6 drops and cost (unless you are really pinching pennies) between the best(most expensive) and the budget(least expensive) is very small. Only if you are going to change the layout frequently or impress you buddies would it be benefical to go the cadillac route. All of the industrial environments that I was responsible for in the past utilized black iron threaded or welded pipe. Proper piping techniques are required no matter what system you choose. You may want to use a conventional piping system for distribution and then go with the aluminum system for the drops. It is true that the "exposed pipe" would 'aid' in the cooling aspect of the compressed air. However this is a very small aspect. Piping in hospitals(breathing air) and other "clean" enviroments is located inside walls/ceilings. If moisture is a problem you should deal with that with a dryer located at the compressor. Otherwise install 'point of use' filter/dryers along with moisture pots. Proper pipe fall should also be adressed.

Hope this helps. You can PM me and I can share other air piping experiences.

... I have seen pvc pipe used but would not recommend it because if there is a pressure failure there could be shrapnal produced which could cause additional injury. ...

PVC is illegal per OSHA and other regulations. All of the PVC manufacturers I have checked have warnings on their websites or catalogs. There is a grade of ABS that is allowed but it must be approved and marked for the use. There are other plastic types but again in a fire they would be dangerous.

... It is true that the "exposed pipe" would 'aid' in the cooling aspect of the compressed air. However this is a very small aspect. Piping in hospitals(breathing air) and other "clean" enviroments is located inside walls/ceilings. If moisture is a problem you should deal with that with a dryer located at the compressor. Otherwise install 'point of use' filter/dryers along with moisture pots. Proper pipe fall should also be adressed.

Hope this helps. You can PM me and I can share other air piping experiences.

The gasses used in hospitals are dry to begin with since most are supplied as liquids. Compressed air lines in a shop should be run in free air. Moisture removal is a large part of the function of the distribution system in a shop which is why pipe fall is important. Of course very large shops with high volume air use may install a mechanical chiller etc but there are few home shops where that would be warranted.

66L78, Check to see if the aluminum system is ASME or ASTM tested and to what standards. Compare this to copper and threaded pipe. Remember that there is also welded pipe and pex to through into this discussion. I have seen pvc pipe used but would not recommend it because if there is a pressure failure there could be shrapnal produced which could cause additional injury. What you really want to know: is the piping system suitable for the application and enviroment? Additionally, us must identify the max working pressure of the pipe and if it is air compatable. Some piping systems and corresponding fittings are not.

In my opinion, most garages and small shops only require 3 to 6 drops and cost (unless you are really pinching pennies) between the best(most expensive) and the budget(least expensive) is very small. Only if you are going to change the layout frequently or impress you buddies would it be benefical to go the cadillac route. All of the industrial environments that I was responsible for in the past utilized black iron threaded or welded pipe. Proper piping techniques are required no matter what system you choose. You may want to use a conventional piping system for distribution and then go with the aluminum system for the drops. It is true that the "exposed pipe" would 'aid' in the cooling aspect of the compressed air. However this is a very small aspect. Piping in hospitals(breathing air) and other "clean" enviroments is located inside walls/ceilings. If moisture is a problem you should deal with that with a dryer located at the compressor. Otherwise install 'point of use' filter/dryers along with moisture pots. Proper pipe fall should also be adressed.

Hope this helps. You can PM me and I can share other air piping experiences.

Prevost ALR is certified by TSSA-TUV-it conforms to ASME B31.1. I am sure the other three major Aluminum Air Line Mfg. are to the same standards. These are products that are engineered & designed for compressed air. Most of these have a working pressure rating of 188 psi, which means with a burst rating of four times the working pressure it would take 752 psi to blow the pipe apart. That does'nt mean that if the airline is not installed correctly you won't have problems.

Aluminum does melt at a lower temp. than steel, that is why it is not allowed in the manufacture of spray booths.

In case of a fire or a line burst, etc. there are safe guards that you can put between the compressor & the airline tie-in to shut off the air supply. It is never a good idea to leave a compressor on or the ball valve open that would allow air to keep feeding air to a flame. I personally think that if this going into business then A. by code you may be required a fire supression system B. There are probally more things in your shop that will fuel a fire to worry about, or if this going into a home hobbiest shop chances you are not going to have much more pipe tan an air hose, air hoses melt. Some of the people here need to move forward 100 years or so...........

The factory I'm sitting in right now has literally thousands of feet of copper air line in it. In the 23 years that I've been here I've yet to see a failure in the hard line portion of the air system.

Black iron is simply a PIA and expensive to work with. Threading machine?? Yep, I've got 2 or 3 of those in my shop just waiting for the next time I need one. Tried to buy a decent pipe theading setup lately?? Prepare to spend some big dollars for one that does a better job of threading than the Chinese do.

Ever look inside any new production equipment, CNCs, tractor trailers??? Wanna guess what they use for air lines?? It ain't black iron, and it's all sealed with push-fit O-ring'd connectors. Again, rarely see a failure.

Compressed air fanning the flames?? I'll bet you've got the pressure relief valve on your tank plumbed outside don't you?? What happens when a fire starts near the compressor, flames heat the tank, the air pressure goes up and the valve pops?? Better plumb that valve outside.........

Have you seen the new crimped copper piping systems?? Guess what it's sealed with??
It ain't pipe doped, it ain't soldered, and it ain't threaded, yet I see it every day and it ain't leaking.

Your family needs to try to save stuff and escape the flames??
#1, saving stuff is what insurance is for, scew it, get the hell out. More people die trying to save stuff than failing to wake up.
#2 Any "working" shop containing anything but minor amounts of flammables should not be attached to the house, period.

Like the fire department is going to keep a list of what's in yout house and where it's located. There's simply now way for them to keep track of everyone's home garage.

And on and on.............

Use what you can afford and what you feel comfortable with installing and using. Breathing air in most hospitals is supplied by breathing air compressors located in central mechanical plants. I have personally installed these in hospitals and in medical facilities as well as medical vacuum systems(suction). Oxygen on the other hand "is" piped from a central liquid source.

I have a 20 cfm dryer in my shop that I use for my plasma cutter and all painting. I just expect my impacts, rachets, die grinders, etc to spew water and air thus resulting in increased tool maintenance and failure.

The ability to condense water vapor out of compressed air is a function of several factors and is essentially relative to the ambient air temperature, compressed air temperature, compressed pressure and initial(pre-compression)relative humidity. At pressure and say 75 degrees ambient, no length of pipe will cause a temp drop sufficient to condense the water vapor and knock it out of the stream because as the pressure rises the dew point decreases. Then when the pressurized air is dropped across a regulator the dew point rises and some water is condensed and this is where a filter/seperator or knockout pot comes into play. But there is still water in the air stream. The balance then enters the tool, at regulated pressure and more water is knocked out when the regulated air is reduced to atmospheric pressure as tool exhaust. At each pressure drop there will be a temp drop resulting in condensation. The cooler the ambient air and/or the more volume of air the worst this situation gets. A dryer will reduce the temperature of the compressed air to 45/50 degrees F before it enters the piping system and will condense most all the water out of the air stream. Without a properly sized drying system, some condensation will occure during cooling within the piping system but the piping system itself is not considered a "drying system". It is ideal to dry the air before it enters the piping system because you really never want water in the piping system. In practice it occurs "ONLY" because there never seems to be enough money or foresight to properly dry the air before it enters the piping system. Pipe fall, knock-out pots, filter/dryers, etc are all required because it is extremely difficult to remove all the moisture but by themselves do not constitute a "drying system". These "secondary" stratagies are insurance when used in conjunction with proper post-compression drying. All the dryers that I have worked with were refrigerated dryers.

Some of the people here need to move forward 100 years or so...........

The factory I'm sitting in right now has literally thousands of feet of copper air line in it. In the 23 years that I've been here I've yet to see a failure in the hard line portion of the air system.

Black iron is simply a PIA and expensive to work with. Threading machine?? Yep, I've got 2 or 3 of those in my shop just waiting for the next time I need one. Tried to buy a decent pipe theading setup lately?? Prepare to spend some big dollars for one that does a better job of threading than the Chinese do.

Ever look inside any new production equipment, CNCs, tractor trailers??? Wanna guess what they use for air lines?? It ain't black iron, and it's all sealed with push-fit O-ring'd connectors. Again, rarely see a failure.

Compressed air fanning the flames?? I'll bet you've got the pressure relief valve on your tank plumbed outside don't you?? What happens when a fire starts near the compressor, flames heat the tank, the air pressure goes up and the valve pops?? Better plumb that valve outside.........

Have you seen the new crimped copper piping systems?? Guess what it's sealed with??
It ain't pipe doped, it ain't soldered, and it ain't threaded, yet I see it every day and it ain't leaking.

Your family needs to try to save stuff and escape the flames??
#1, saving stuff is what insurance is for, scew it, get the hell out. More people die trying to save stuff than failing to wake up.
#2 Any "working" shop containing anything but minor amounts of flammables should not be attached to the house, period.

Like the fire department is going to keep a list of what's in yout house and where it's located. There's simply now way for them to keep track of everyone's home garage.

And on and on.............

Use what you can afford and what you feel comfortable with installing and using.

Well said...

The factory I'm sitting in right now has literally thousands of feet of copper air line in it. In the 23 years that I've been here I've yet to see a failure in the hard line portion of the air system.

As stated already, multiple times, copper lines work great.

Black iron is simply a PIA and expensive to work with. Threading machine?? Yep, I've got 2 or 3 of those in my shop just waiting for the next time I need one. Tried to buy a decent pipe theading setup lately?? Prepare to spend some big dollars for one that does a better job of threading than the Chinese do.

Just because you have a hard time with black iron, doesnt mean it is hard to work with. A good machine and sharp dies go a LONG way.

And no, I dont have my own machine. Whenever I need one, I rent one. I typical rent for a day cost me less than $50 It has never, and will never, make sense to buy one. Sounds to me like you have already made that mistake "2 or 3" times.

Ever look inside any new production equipment, CNCs, tractor trailers??? Wanna guess what they use for air lines?? It ain't black iron, and it's all sealed with push-fit O-ring'd connectors. Again, rarely see a failure.

So you have seen failures? On NEW equipment?

My thoughts exactly.

Have you seen the new crimped copper piping systems?? Guess what it's sealed with??
It ain't pipe doped, it ain't soldered, and it ain't threaded, yet I see it every day and it ain't leaking.

I have seen it. I have used it. I sell it at work.

But I dont trust it.

Trust takes time. Give those fittings 10+ years. If they are still holding fast, Ill CONSIDER them.

Again, I see no reason to use O-ring fittings based upon this logic:

It creates one more possible point of failure.

Sweat soldered/threaded joints WORK. I see no reason to change, other than installation convenience, which the O-ring setup targets.

Your family needs to try to save stuff and escape the flames??
#1, saving stuff is what insurance is for, scew it, get the hell out. More people die trying to save stuff than failing to wake up.
#2 Any "working" shop containing anything but minor amounts of flammables should not be attached to the house, period.

#1, Sorry, but I dont think ANYONE mentioned a concern for saving "stuff".

#2, Ill beta majority of this board will disagree with you on that one

And on and on.............

Use what you can afford and what you feel comfortable with installing and using.

Ill drink to that.

Do you have leaks or pressure drops in your compressed air system? The insiders are us! Industry insiders claim that adopting the right compressed air pipes might save up to 30% of your energy costs. Find out how picking the perfect piping materials from top compressed air pipe suppliers can solve these pesky issues and keep your system running like a dream.

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1. Why It’s Important to Choose the Right Compressed Air Pipe for Your System

Compressed air piping systems are the unsung heroes that keep air flowing from compressors to your gear. Installing the proper plumbing keeps everything operating efficiently and on schedule, much like having a car that never breaks down.

Imagine hitting every deadline and experiencing fewer manufacturing difficulties. Consistent air pressure is necessary for the operation of tools such as CNC machines, sanders, and air drills. Pipe selection maintains the proper airflow, reducing energy loss and saving money.

Long-lasting plumbing also reduces maintenance expenses and downtime because it needs fewer replacements and repairs. Additionally, properly built plumbing reduces the possibility of leaks and bursts, safeguarding your employees and preserving business productivity.

Smart pipe decisions, in summary, result in happier machines, safer workplaces, and cheaper expenses.

2. Types of Piping Materials for Compressed Air

Choosing the right piping material for your compressed air system is important because each type has perks and pitfalls. Knowing these can help you pick the best option for your needs. Let’s break down the types of piping materials available:

A. Stainless Steel Pipe:

Stainless steel pipes are the gold standard when you need zero risk of corrosion or degradation. Perfect for industries with strict standards like pharmaceuticals and healthcare, these pipes promise durability and reliability in even the toughest environments.

Pros:

1. No risk of corrosion or degradation
2. Ideal for stringent environments (pharmaceuticals, hospitals)
3. Approved for vacuum applications in healthcare facilities

Cons:

1. Pricey
2. Needs specialized installation

B. Aluminum Pipe:

Going with aluminum pipes for your compressed air system is a win for several reasons. They’re light, won’t rust, and are super easy to install and change. This is perfect if your facility is growing or moving. Plus, even though they cost more upfront, they save you money in the long run by being energy efficient.

Pros:

1. Lightweight and easy to install
2. No rust, smooth inside
3. Long-term efficiency and cost savings
4. Easy to reconfigure

Cons:

1. Higher initial cost

C. Galvanized Pipe:

Galvanized pipes are a popular choice, especially in the Middle East. They’re familiar to most technicians and offer some rust protection thanks to their coating. But watch out – over time, they can corrode, causing blockages and safety issues.

Pros:

1. Technicians know how to install them
2. Rust protection adds to their lifespan

Cons:

1. Can corrode over time
2. Need skilled plumbers for installation
3. Heavy and hard to handle, joints can fail

D. Copper Pipe:

Copper pipes are a top pick for medical applications because they kill germs. They’re easy to cut, weld, and hang, and most plumbers know how to work with them. But they do come with a higher price tag.

Pros:

1. No rust and easy to work with
2. Lightweight with lots of fitting options
3. Perfect for medical use

Cons:

1. More expensive

E. Plastic Pipe:

Plastic pipes are cheap and easy to install, but be careful! PVC pipes are a big no-no for compressed air systems because they can burst and become brittle over time. Using them can lead to major safety risks and hefty fines.

Pros:

1. Cheap and easy to install
2. No rust

Cons:

1. PVC is dangerous and not suitable for compressed air
2. Can burst and get brittle over time
3. Violates OSHA rules, risking fines and business shutdowns

3. How Choosing the Right Pipe Size Impacts Performance

Picking the right size for your air compressor pipes is super important! You need to think about how much air you need to move and how far it needs to go. If your pipes are the wrong size, you’ll see significant drops in pressure.

Goto Trust Fluids to know more.

A. Small Pipes = Big Problems:

If your pipes are too small, the air rubbing against the pipe walls causes a pressure drop. The smaller the pipe and the longer the distance, the worse the drop. Bends, joints, and couplings make it even worse. You might have to crank up the PSI to fix this, which costs more energy. You should aim for no more than a 3 PSI drop from the compressor to the point of use. If you have a 20 PSI drop, you’ll need to increase the system pressure to 120 PSI to keep 100 PSI at the point of use, which hikes up energy costs by 10%!

B. Big Pipes = Big Costs:

Big pipes don’t mess with performance but can cost you more money. They need more materials and are pricier to install. Plus, they store more air, which isn’t as efficient as using air receiver tanks. But if you’re planning to expand later, going a bit bigger now might save you money down the line.

C. Bottom line:

Get your pipe size right to keep things running smoothly and save on costs!

4. How Compressed Air Piping is Sized

Follow these simple steps to get your compressed air piping size right and avoid pressure drops.

Step 1: Calculate Your Airflow (CFM)

First, determine your system’s airflow needs in cubic feet per minute (CFM). List all your compressed air equipment and jot down their CFM requirements. You can usually find this in the manufacturer’s specs or use an airflow meter. Watch out for peak times when multiple tools are going full blast. Do a process that needs short, intense air bursts? Think about adding an air receiver tank at the point of use—it’s a game changer and might save you from upgrading to bigger pipes.

Step 2: Calculate CFM Requirements

Now, to get the full picture of your CFM needs, you might want to call in the pros. Hire a professional service or consult with your in-house engineer to get a detailed study done. They’ll use fancy tools like flow meters and data loggers to measure your overall CFM demand, peak demand, and your air compressor’s maximum output. This way, you’ll have the cold, hard facts you need for those crucial pipe-sizing decisions.

Step 3: Determine Your Operating Pressure (PSI)

Next, let’s talk PSI—your operating pressure. Most industrial tools are happy between 90 and 100 PSI. Get a reliable pressure gauge and measure the PSI at your compressor and the furthest point of use. If you see a pressure drop of more than 3 PSI, your pipes might be undersized. Don’t worry; maintenance supervisors or industrial engineers can help you figure out the ideal PSI and the pressure dynamics throughout your system.

Step 4: Adjust Pipe Size and Plant Pressure

Based on your data, it’s time to make some tweaks. If there are significant pressure drops, you might need larger pipes. Yes, this might mean replacing existing ones, which can be a big job requiring skilled plumbers and welders. Also, hunt for leaks in the system—they’re sneaky and can cause pressure drops. Use leak detectors or the good old soapy water method to find and fix them. Finally, if your system’s pressure is higher than needed, adjust it to the required level. This will save energy and cut costs. Boom, efficiency upgrade!

5. Picking the Right Pipes for Your Compressed Air System: A Total Game-Changer

When it comes to compressed air systems, not all pipes are created equal. There are Many options exist, but only a few types reign supreme. Choosing the right one can make all the difference in efficiency and performance.

A. Think About Installation Costs: Aluminum Pipes for the Win!

Aluminum pipes are a breeze to install! They’re super easy and quick to install, saving on labor costs. Plus, they’re lightweight and flexible, making them perfect for just about any setup you have.

B. Durability Showdown: Aluminum vs. Stainless Steel

Both aluminum and stainless steel are tough cookies, but stainless steel takes the cake in environments where corrosion is a real problem. Stainless steel is your best bet if you’re dealing with moisture or other corrosive elements.

C. Future-Proof Your Setup: Flexibility is Key

Are you planning to expand or make changes down the line? Go with a piping system that’s a cinch to reconfigure. Aluminum pipes are your go-to here. Their flexibility and easy installation make future modifications a total breeze.

D. Equipment Compatibility: Don’t Overlook This!

Before you decide, double-check that your pipes will play nicely with your existing equipment. Different tools and machines might need specific air quality and pressure levels, so compatibility is crucial.

E. Think Long-Term: Save More Over Time

Sure, some materials might hit your wallet harder upfront, but think long-term! Materials like stainless steel can save you big bucks down the road by cutting energy costs and minimizing repairs. While stainless steel may be pricier initially, its durability and resistance to corrosion make it a cost-effective choice in the long run.

The Bottom Line

Choose the suitable pipes for your needs, and you’ll have a smooth-running, efficient system that saves you money and hassle in the long run. Whether you go with aluminum for its all-around awesomeness or stainless steel for its purity, you’re making a smart move!

The company is the world’s best Aluminum Compressed Air Pipe supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.