Tie Rod / Drag Link Recommendations?? - WAYALIFE Jeep Forum

26 May.,2025

 

Tie Rod / Drag Link Recommendations?? - WAYALIFE Jeep Forum

I'm researching steering upgrades for my '15 JKUR build and was curious what you guys are running and/or recommend as far as aftermarket Tie Rod & Drag links? It looks like Synergy is a popular choice and I see some mention of Currie set up ($$$) are these the best out there? Does anyone have any experience with the Yeti heavy duty stuf from Steer Smart?

Also what exactly is the difference between/advantage of a top mount versus a bottom mount drag link and is the effect of running a top mount set up the same as running a drag link flip kit? Or is it actually exactly the same thing lol?

Thanks! For a drag link, stick with the OEM one. Nothing wrong with it.

For a tie rod, I've been running the aluminum RK tie rod. I don't recommend this thing. You have aluminum mixing with steel which means you have to be careful to coat the threads of the steel tie rod ends in anti-seize so things don't corrode.

The upper/lower you're referring to (I think) is a drag-link flip or not. Unless you have, most will say 3+" of lift, you won't need a DL flip. I have the synergy tie rod and it kept flopping forward with my psc ram attached to it. i had to buy a set of washers they sell to keep it from flopping and binding.
also, depending on the your wheel backspace it may cause some issues.

I would recommend keeping your existing tie rod until you damage it and then replace it. Thanks guys! So it sounds like Synergy is highly recommended, Currie also. The Steer Smart set up that you mentioned Eddie is actually the Yeti set up that I was asking about, so thank you on your input on that one! After your post I went back and took a look at your SEMA coverage where you put up some information on it. Sounds interesting and looks neat with the no drilling of the knuckles system that they came up with. It's just so new that there is not a lot of info out on it but sometimes being the guinea pig is not such a bad thing lol! I'll have to look into the new Rubicon Express system and see if I can find some additional info on it. I would do Currie.

I have Synergy and it has been a pain since I bought it. What did help is their anti flop bushings on the tie rod (purchase separate). After every wheeling trip my steering is off and I have to redo the steering wheel it seems. Maybe 2 trips I've come back and things have been fine. The Currie tie rod and drag link, though pricey, is the beefiest steering I've seen for the JK. I haven't heard of this steer smart stuff. I'll have to check it out.


Edit: Ok just checked out the Yeti/Steer Smart steering thread in the Sema sub forum and it looks like a great kit. If I weren't going with a 60 up front I'd consider it on my JK. On the Yeti tie rod, the outside diameter of the tube is the same as stock (as are most replacement tie rods except the Currie which is an eighth of an inch larger at 1.5 inches). Many of the HD tie rods are solid rod, others are very heavy wall tubing (.375) while the Yeti is but .250 wall (this may be more than adequate depending on the quality of the steel). It would seem that aluminum tie rods are too weak but there are some out there. You also have to look at the tie rod ends. Some just specify HD rod ends, Currie specifies 3/4 ton rod ends and at least one (Metalcloak) specifies 1 ton rod ends. Some tie rods will work with 16 inch wheels while others will only work with 17 inch wheels. Most HD rods allow no more than 4.75 backspace and recommend less. It all gets a bit confusing (I also am in the market for the best tie rod for the JK). I just installed the Ruff Stuff tie rod on my 14 jk. Haven't wheeled with it yet, so cannot speak for its durability. Install went smoothly, I did not need to ream my knuckles as some have. From what I've read it's hit or miss, some do some do not. I have 17" 4.5" backspace wheels and the tie rod ends clear easily. I also have a poison spyder bombshell front diff cover and there's about 1" of clearance from the tie rod at full lock.

So far I'm pleased with it. But again, haven't given it a real test yet.

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I just installed the Ruff Stuff tie rod on my 14 jk. Haven't wheeled with it yet, so cannot speak for its durability. Install went smoothly, I did not need to ream my knuckles as some have. From what I've read it's hit or miss, some do some do not. I have 17" 4.5" backspace wheels and the tie rod ends clear easily. I also have a poison spyder bombshell front diff cover and there's about 1" of clearance from the tie rod at full lock.

So far I'm pleased with it. But again, haven't given it a real test yet.

Does it come in raw steel?
Personally, I would recommend Currie based on experience. But, after seeing them at sema, I would consider street smart or the new Rubicon Express as well.

What do you like about the Currie system? I'm thinking about upgrading my draglink & tie rod as well. How is the maintenance and how long do they last before you have to replace them again?
What do you like about the Currie system? I'm thinking about upgrading my draglink & tie rod as well. How is the maintenance and how long do they last before you have to replace them again?
Nice thread resurrection from 4 years ago.

I do run the Currie Currectlync system (the $500 kit, not the $ kit) and it has been great. Beat the shit out of it and it hasn't bent at all. The rod ends have loosened up a bit compared to what they were a year ago, but grease the joints at every oil change and you should be fine for a good long time. The ends are replaceable when it comes time.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t= Is the drag link supposed to be able to rotate at the ball joint at all? I have been having this question because I just installed the Synergy drag link and with the steering straight, you can twist the drag link a little...essentially it is rotating at the adjustment end even though I have the cinch bolt tighten up all the way. To be more specific, it is rotating the actual ball joint at the steering knuckle, but it is rotating on the threads of the adjustment sleeve at the pitman arm side...

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